Sihanoukville Places of Interest

Sihanoukville Guide


Sihanoukville is Cambodia's premier beach location, and debate rages over whether its beaches are fine enough for it to eventually pose a real alternative to Thailand's Pattaya or Phuket. Given international tourism's insatiable appetite for new places and some rather pretty beaches, we think it will...eventually.

Sihanoukville is Cambodia's youngest city, springing to life in 1955 when a construction team arrived at what was then known as Kompong Som to begin work on Cambodia's first (and only) deep water port. When the post was finished in 1960 the area was renamed Sihanoukville (in honour of the then King Sihanouk) but many Cambodians, even today, continue to refer to it as Kompong Som.

Set on a peninsula ringed by beaches, for years, poor security caused by the Khmer Rouge kept it largely off-limits to all but the most intrepid travellers but today with a good road leading to it from Phnom Penh and an on-again, off-again airport where regular flights may one day become a reality, Sihanoukville is drawing a steady stream of backpackers along with expatriates down from Phnom Penh for a lazy weekend.

The first time we visited Sihanoukville we loved it, the second time less so, and each time after that less so again -- yet we still find ourselves returning. It has a somewhat abandoned feel to it, amplified by the number of half-built or deserted plots of land marked out by high fences -- plots often "owned" by businessmen with sometimes dubious land title and an eye for a fast buck.

Ochheuteal Beach, Sihanoukville's most popular, has a bit of a caravan-park feel to it and the motodops here are amongst the worst in Cambodia. Over the last few years, as Thailand has slowly tightened its visa regulations, there's been an influx of crusty, sex-tourist types from Pattaya, who have certainly contributed to the rising number of dodgy bars and bar-beers. Sihanoukville also has a long-running problem with foreign and local paedophiles.

It isn't all bad news though. Sihanoukville's beaches are sprawling and pretty, though not postcard-perfect as many of the Thai beaches are. The sand is generally grainier and more yellow-grey in colour and many are lined with ramshackle food vendors. On weekends, Khmer and barang hordes converge particularly on Occheuteal, and accommodation prices tend to rise a little. It's a fun place, and an unusual mix of Khmers and barang relaxing side-by-side in a way you don't see in Thailand, nor in fact in the rest of Cambodia that often.

Beaches aside, numerous islands lie offshore reachable on day trips, with limited accommodation starting to spring up on some of them. The province is also home to Ream National Park, which is well worth a visit.

If you're arriving in Sihanoukville by bus or share-taxi from Phnom Penh, you'll arrive in Sihanoukville town, from where Ochheuteal Beach, Independence Beach, Victory Hill & Beach and Sokha Beach are but a motodop ride away.


Sokha Beach

Occupying all of Sokha Beach, the Sokha Beach Resort offers luxury accommodation, restaurants, bars, water sports, and more. Sokha Beach is open to the general public as well as guests of the resort. The beach is about 1 kilometer long and comparatively wide so that there is plenty of sand left during high tide. The fine, white sand is perfectly groomed these days, but the beach is fairly quiet by comparison to nearby Ochheuteal and Serendipity.


Ochheuteal and Serendipity Beaches

Ochheuteal Beach, known as ‘UNTAC Beach’ in the early 1990s, is the most popular in Sihanouk Ville with little shack-style seafood restaurants and bars lining the almost 2km of the sand’s edge from ‘Serendipity Beach’ to the development area. Ochheuteal has the full spectrum of beach venues including mid-range hotels and budget guesthouses, beachfront seafood restaurants, all-night party bars and bungalows right on the sand. The beach is long, sandy and narrow, with ‘Serendipity Beach’ at the northern end, a development project at the southern half, and a cluster of mid-range hotels and restaurants near the middle.

The mid-section of Ochheuteal Beach is one of the busiest beaches in Sihanouk Ville. The area used to cater primarily to upper range tourists, but these days offers a pretty even mix of middle/upper range and budget hotels and guesthouses. Golden Sand and the Seaside Hotel are two of the nicest hotels in this area and Holiday Hotel is an old favorite of many. Bungalows and guesthouses in the area include GST Guesthouse, Susaday Guesthouse, Romny Family Bungalows and a bit farther up the road, the popular Orchideé Guesthouse.

At Ochheuteal’s extreme northern end, the area commonly known as ‘Serendipity Beach’ is the only beach in Sihanouk Ville to offer bungalows and guesthouse rooms right on the sand. ‘Serendipity’s’ popularity continues to grow, particularly amongst budget and independent travelers. Beach bars and restaurants line the beach and there are often beach parties late into the evening. Serendipity offers several budget and mid-range places including the stylish Malibu Bungalows, Rega Guesthouse and Leng Meng; Cloud 9’s well-known bungalows; the good cooking and beachside rooms at Serenity; and Eden Bar’s budget and mid-range rooms and beachfront bar. There are also now several places between ‘Serendipity’ and the Golden Lion Traffic Circle such as Reef Resort, Monkey Republic and Mick & Craig’s Sanctuary Bar and Guesthouse. To get to ‘Serendipity Beach’ follow Ekareach Street straight through the Golden Lion Traffic Circle, and up and over the hill.

Independence Beach

Independence Beach gets its name from the the 7-storey The Independence Boutique Resort and Spa (formerly the Independence Hotel) at the north end. Locals call this beach ‘otel bram-pul chann (hotel 7-storeys). It is labeled ‘7-Chann Beach’ on the in-town street sign. Independence Beach is, in general, less frequented than other beaches, and sees few foreign visitors. It’s a good beach to escape some of the ‘hustle and bustle’ of the tourist beaches while still having access to beach bars and seafood shacks.

Independence Beach is more than a kilometer long, but the sandy area is quite narrow, making the beach best when the tide is low. Grass umbrellas and drink vendors dot the beach from end to end but it is more touristed toward the southern end, near the beach’s only hotel, Sea Breeze. At the other end is a small fresh water lake (which is the source of the town’s fresh water and is rumored to contain crocodiles).


Kampot

The coastal town of Kampot is about two hours south of Phnom Penh. The fastest route there is via Takhmau on Route 2, then turn right just before the town of Takeo in order to jog over to Route 3. You will pass through the last of the Elephant Mountains near the coast, including an imposing rock massif on left, entirely owned by Teng Bunma. From outside the gate it looks as if a huge doorway has been carved into the northwest face. One can only imagine what he uses it for.

For foreigners, the easiest way to explore the points of interest near Kampot is to stop at the Marco Polo restaurant, just east of the center of town (or by now, its newer incarnation on the waterfront). Owner Davide Cattaneo can organize day trips on a boat up the Kampot river or along the coast to the beach islands off Kep, or up to the spectacular Bokor hill station, with its ruined hotel and resort village overlooking the Cambodian coast from 1100 meters. Khmer Rouge troops held out on Bokor for weeks after Vietnamese forces swept past them to take the bulk of southeastern Cambodia and the capital. Twenty years later, in 1999, the area was still littered with relics of the battle for the hilltop redoubt: the guardhouse atop the hotel is still buttressed by sandbags in the photo here, and the rooftop was strewn with spent shells. By the time Bokor fell, the rest of the Khmer Rouge were filled more with bullets than with their former braggadocio.


Sihanoukville town

Sihanoukville (also known as Kompong Som) can be described as a beach town, port and emerging resort destination. The pace of life is very relaxed and it’s a place to unwind, enjoy the fresh-from-the-ocean seafood, take a snorkelling or scuba trip, and generally slow-down, chat and chill-out. Accommodation ranges from new resorts on Sokha Beach, mid-range places downtown, a few three-star hotels at the beach, plus dozens of budget guesthouses. The town has a surprising number of restaurants and bars offering foreign food, pool tables, movies and music. There’s even a casino open round the clock.

Buses to Sihanoukville, Cambodia’s main beach town, run all day from early morning until early afternoon. The trip takes about 3.5 hours and costs about $5. The bus companies are near the southwest corner of Psar Tmei (the New Market in the middle of Phnom Penh). Just go there and take the next bus. If there isn’t a convenient one, go the the street off the NW corner of the market and you will find many car and van taxis going to Sihanoukville. $5/person to be stuffed in there, $20 if you want the whole car (which also means you can leave immediately instead of waiting for the car to fill. Specify “air-con” if you want it, and choose a car with the steering wheel on the left side if you are concerned about safety

Angkor Wat

There are two ways to go to Angkor Wat. Go up the river to the town of Siem Reap, near Angkor, by boat. It takes four to six hours, but you get to see the countryside and the riverine villages, many of which are populated by ethnic Vietnamese. Then fly back to Phnom Penh. There is usually no shortage of tickets for the boat or the plane, but you take your chances if you don’t reserve.

Is the boat safe? You be the judge. I have seen fishers firing warning shots (they’re angry over boats cutting their lines and nets). Also, boats have run out of fuel in the middle of the Tonle Sap lake, leaving the passengers stranded for hours in the blazing sun. One of them swamped at the dock in Siem Reap because of overloading, and yet another burst into flames in Kompong Chhnang because a guy was smoking while he sat on top of the drums that served as extra fuel tanks. Also, the smaller speedboats are grossly overpowered, go too fast, and if one was to hit something or go out of control on the lake there would be many casualties.

OK, so it’s not for everybody. Bring earplugs and drinking water, and if you plan to ride on the roof (recommended) use plenty of sunblock and bring a scarf (krama) to tie around your head.

Tickets to the Angkor temple complex run $20 for one day, $40 for three days and $80 for a week. You’re cheating yourself if you go for less than three days

Ratanakiri

Cambodia’s northeastern wilderness is beautiful and very remote. If you’re willing to explore and don’t need creature comforts, it has a lot to offer. Transportation is bad; the province boasts a total of less than 2 km of paved road. Local swidden farmers (non-Khmer “hill tribes”) are under heavy pressure from officials and army types to stop their roving so cash crops can be planted (under de facto license by Hun Sen’s regime, normally) and logging trucks daily carry their illegal gains across to Vietnam. This is one way the regime pays off its political and military allies–by giving them franchises to log, clear, smuggle, and exterminate rare animals for export. In this case, the governor of Ratanakkiri, Kep Chuk Tema, is a CPP man who runs the province. The Ministry of Environment seems to try its best to fulfill its mandate, but when it comes down to it, they are not an armed force, and have to back down despite the good intentions that I think the Minister of Environment, Mok Mareth (also CPP), clings to.

The town of Banlung, does not have much to offer. There is one real restaurant, the Ratanakiri restaurant, at the north end of town. There are very few Westerners living up there–maybe five or ten max. There are no bars, bookstores, libraries, movie theaters, etc. There are some streetside pool tables with ripped-up felt, and several karaoke shops.
In the dry season it’s possible to take a truck taxi from Stung Treng to the grimy capital, Banlung. In the wet season, RAC with its five weekly flights to the capital’s red dirt airstrip is the only option. There are a few acceptable guesthouses in Banlung, and one hotel which appears to be a failed venture by the governor and is barely open.

You can take day trips by motorcycle (rental is available at the Ratanakiri restaurant) through the old rubber plantations to two high waterfalls. Just a few kilometers from Banlung there is a lovely little volcanic lake with good swimming, surrounded by a surprisingly well-maintained nature trail. Thankfully, the whorehouse operating in recent years on the edge of the lake in recent years has been dislodged. Now there is a nice little museum of local musical instruments and crafts instead.

Other than those who want serious hinterlands and overnights drinking local liquor with the hill-tribes, most travelers will find 3 or 4 days enough.


Victory Beach

Victory Beach is really two beaches divided by a rocky point and a small hill. The southern section is known as ‘Hawaii Beach.’ The northern section near Weather Station Hill is known as ‘Victory Beach’ and a bit further north, ‘Port Beach.’

‘Victory Beach’ sits at the base of the very popular Weather Station Hill near the Vietnam-Cambodia Monument (‘Victory Monument’). At time of printing, this section of beach was undergoing a development
project. The beach was still open beach-goers, but most all of the beach umbrellas and restaurants in this section had been removed. Things are changing fast. Watch for developments. A bit further north along Victory Beach, there are a couple of upscale oceanside seafood restaurants and the Holiday Palace Casino and Resort.

Above Victory Beach, Weather Station Hill (a.k.a. Victory Hill, Port Hill, The Hill) is a thriving budget traveler and bar/nightlife area that offers a real variety of places. Budget and backpacker places dominate the side of the Hill overlooking the ocean and there are several tourist-oriented business on top as well - budget and mid-range guesthouses and hotels, a variety of restaurants and bars, internet, CD shops, and lots more. The top of the Hill also has one of the fastest growing bar and nightlife scenes in town. The main entrance road to the hilltop from Ekareach Street sports several hostess bars and other drinking venues, many staying open into the early morning hours.

‘Hawaii Beach’ is also known as ‘King’s Beach,’ ‘South Channel Beach’ and ‘Lamherkay Beach.’ Like the other major beaches, Hawaii Beach is lined with umbrellas and chairs and little beach shack bars and seafood restaurants, though no where near as densely as Ochheuteal. Like Independence Beach, Hawaii is much less touisted than Ochheuteal and ‘Serendipity.’ Access the beach from the small road at the southern end.


Otres Beach

Otres is the next beach south of Ochheuteal and in many way resembles Ochheuteal - a 3 kilometer crescent of near white sand - but far less touristed than Ochheuteal and almost completely undeveloped by comparison. There are scattered grass umbrellas along the beach and a few thatch roof beach bars and restaurants clustered toward the near end including the Star Bar offering beachfront bungalows, bar and restaurant, and Otres Nautica offering water sports equipment - boats, Hobie Waves, kayaks, etc. The Queen Hill Resort bungalows sits on the hill side at the near end, overlooking the ocean and beach. Otres village and pagoda sit about 1km off the beach.

To get there: The road over the hill from Ochheuteal (through Queen Hill Resort on top of the hill) allows
easy motorcycle access to Otres but is blocked to cars. By car from Ochheuteal Beach: follow 1 Kanda Street to the end and turn left, cross the bridge and proceed about 1km to the next right turn. Turn and follow the road about 1km to the beach. From downtown, take Omui Street east about 4km to a fork and bear right. At the next opportunity take a left. It is 2km to the beach. It’s a dirt road much of the way.


Other Beaches  

These ‘other’ beaches are outside of the town area and are frequented more by fishermen than tourists, though this is slowly changing. Road conditions can be challenging, especially in the wet season.


Ream Beach

Located in the Ream National Park. Though not untouristed, the Ream Beaches see far fewer visitors than Sihanoukville beaches. Take Route 4 to the Airport road 18km north of town. Turn right, go 9km to the ocean. The beach to the right is long and narrow and frequented more by fishermen than tourists. Behind the beach is a mangrove swamp, which attracts a wide variety of tropical birds. The beaches to the left nearer the Naval Base now have a few vendors selling drinks and renting tubes. There is a small $5 per night guesthouse run by the National Park. Check at the park HQ opposite the entrance to the airport.


Prek Treng Beach

Also known as the ‘Hun Sen Beach,’ the Prek Treng Beach a few kilometers north of town is a long, narrow crescent of sand, a bit rocky in parts, offering comparatively warm shallow waters. Due to Prek Treng’s distance from town and complete lack of services (no guesthouses, restaurants, beach chairs, etc.,) the beach is usually deserted. There is a nearby development project promising a busy future for Prek Treng, but at the moment you can have the beach pretty much to yourself. Just remember to bring drinks and snacks as there are very rarely beach vendors available. To get there follow Hun Sen Beach Drive north a few kilometers past the port area. The beach is on the left just past the first bridge and before you reach the oil port.


Sunset Points

Sihanoukville offers several excellent spots to watch sunset. Most people opt for the beaches. Victory is the most ideally oriented beach for sunset. The view from the other beaches is sometimes partially obstructed depending on the time of year. Of the restaurants, Bungalow Village, Chez Claude, Chez Mari-yan, Nika Guesthouse and Mealy Chenda offer the best vistas. My favorite beach spot is the fishing camp at the base of the hill between north and south Victory beaches. The fishing boats in the foreground and Snake Island on the horizon can be quite photogenic. Perhaps the best sunset point is at the top of Sihanouk Ville Mountain. The rocks at the top face west offer a beautiful view of the town, port, ocean and islands.