Siem Reap Places of Interest

OTHER THINGS TO DO AND PLACES TO GO


The Tonle Sap Lake    

Most visitors to Siem Reap, if they see any of the lake at all, will do so by taking a tour of an hour or two at the Vietnamese floating village of Chong Khneas, which is the village where the speedboats to and from Phnom Penh and Battambang dock. If, for reasons of time and money, Chong Khneas is all you can do, then that's better than nothing. But what follows is a brief description of the various villages on the Tonle Sap and what is entailed to visit one


Chong Khneas

This is the village most people visit and a quick boat trip around the village will not only show you people in conical hats, which usually makes them Vietnamese, going about their daily lives, but you'll also bump into a dozen other small boats ferrying camera-toting tourists going about their daily tourist lives. In a nutshell, I think this village is a cruddy tourist trap and not surprisingly, many of the locals are either thoroughly tired of all the tourists floating around their neighborhood or have devised ingenious ways of separating you from your money. Still, if due to time constraints it's the only lake village you can visit, then I guess it's better than nothing. But if you do go to Chong Khneas, the Gecko Environment Centre is well worth checking out as you can learn quite a bit about the ecology of the great lake.

The tourist police took over the Chong Khneas tourist boat operation in November 2003 and take the lion's share of the money. The prices were supposed to be fixed, but in fact the police will try to get from you as much as they can and your driver will be expected to help. Drivers/tourguides are given a kickback and strongly discouraged from bargaining on your behalf. The person who actually takes you on the trip, the boat operator, sees very little of this money and as a result will often be more interested in getting you to buy stuff than actually show you anything interesting. Yes, this whole system sucks.


Prek Toal

This is the bird sanctuary about an hour west of Chong Khneas. The time to come is during the dry season. Inquire at a reputable travel agency or with your guesthouse or hotel. Also check with Osmose at http://www.osmosetonlesap.org/. The government operation at Chong Khneas claims they will take people to Prek Toal levying entrance of fees of roughly $35 per person. Other privately arranged tours can exceed $100 but will be much more professionally done. Bring your own binoculars. Overnight stays can be arranged.


Kompong Phluk

About 25 kilometers east of Chong Khneas, here's a much better option for visiting a village on the lake. Kompong Phluk is a permanent village opposed to floating and for most of the year it is accessible by boat only. I have an extensive write-up (click to read) from my October 2000 visit, my first of several, that will tell you more about the village and the flooded forest. Depending on how you choose to travel, getting here can require a little bit of money. Some more enterprising guesthouses (Two Dragons, for one) and motodrivers can sort you out a trip here for around $40-50 depending on the time of year and number of people. The governemnt operation in Chong Khneas can also get you here, but see the comments under Chong Khneas about them and bear in mind that very little of your money will land in anyone else's hands except the police and I don't recommend this option. The claim in Lonely Planet that you can get here for $10, $5 for a moto and $5 for a boat is quite wrong.


Kompong Khleang

The next Tonle Sap town east of Kompong Phluk, this place is huge, the largest on the lake, actually. A permanent town, it's accessible by water and by land at certain times of the year. The view coming in from the lake, especially when the lake is down in the dry season and the hundreds of houses and other buildings are soaring several meters above the water is nothing short of spectacular! By land you can get here on your own much more cheaply, though in the absence of renting your own motorbike, it may take awhile to find a motodop willing to take the two-plus-hour ride from Siem Reap. But hey, money talks and a reasonable price would be $40 which would include a boat ride around the village. Two Dragons Guesthouse can also get you here with or without a combined visit to Kompong Phluk.

To get here on your own, head east on Highway 6 towards Phnom Penh, go about 30-35 kilometers (my odometer is broken so I can't tell you exactly how many klicks) to the village of Damdek, you'll know you're here when you see the remains of a large market to your left). Pass the remains of the market and turn right at the next road which is about a kilometer further. Follow this road for about twenty minutes until one of two things happens, and which one will depend on the time of year. If it's the dry season you will be able to get all way to Kompong Khleang, which at the point you only need to ask around for a boat (a good reason to bring a Khmer with you) if you want to see the village from the water. If it's the rainy season, chances are you'll only be able to get within about two kilometers of the town. In that case, you'll have to take a boat the rest of the way. If the conditions are such that you have to do this, somewhere along the road you'll encounter a crowded area of people and boats as all the locals are here trying to get home, so join the crowd. The trip to the town shouldn't be more than a thousand riels or so and as foreigners are almost unheard of here, you're not likely to be charged a foreigner price as it's doubtful anyone's thought yet to do it. The boat will bring you to the center of the village where you can again find dry land to walk on, or hire a private boat to explore further


Moat Kla

This is the last village in Siem Reap province on the southeastern end of the lake. It's several hours by boat from Siem Reap and impossible to reach by land. It's a floating village and predominantly Vietnamese. There are some nice forests and inland waterways including a small lake (compared to the Tonle Sap). You can access this as a full-day trip, picking up a boat in Kompong Khleang or Kompong Phluk. Expect to pay $120-140 for the day. Not many guesthouses or drivers would know how to sort it out.

If you mention a lake trip to your guesthouse in probably 99% of the cases you will be directed to Chong Khneas, though more and more guesthouses are now taking people to Kompong Phluk.


Pursat

Pursat province is nowhere near Siem Reap, it's the other side of the lake, actually, but I mention it as it does offer the opportunity (for the time being, anyway) to see one of the larger and markedly less touristy floating villages without a significant investment in time or money, you only have to get yourself over there. There are in fact, a number of floating villages in the province and I have visited several that are only accessible from the lake: Peach Kantil, Kbal Taol, and Prek Kra. Well, forget about those unless you have tons of money (I don't, I was doing photography for somebody else who was paying the bill!), but you can see Kompong Luong for the cost of the day-rate for a moto ($6-8) and the cost for a boat ride once you get there. I haven't been to this village, which happens to be Vietnamese (many of the villages are Vietnamese and most are ethnically divided as to whether they are Viet or Khmer), but having been to the others I can guess what awaits. Do visit! Details on this village are available in both the Rough Guide Cambodia and Lonely Planet Cambodia


Far away temples

There are several temples and even temple complexes locating some considerable distance from Siem Reap town, but are well worth visiting if you can. They are located in Preah Vihear, Kompong Thom, and Banteay Meanchey provinces.


Preah Vihear temple

Long a contentious matter between Thailand and Cambodia as to who owns it, the temple is legally in the hands of Cambodia and more-or-less in their control, as well. This hilltop temple is not in the best condition but affords spectacular views of the countryside and if you can handle a 250cc motorbike, the ride up the mountain is fun (or at least was fun until the road fell apart again). I attended the grand opening on January 15th, 2003 and the chronicle can be read here. Practical information on getting to the temple is included on that page as well as on the Preah Vihear province page. For motorbiking or 4WD, and/or combining with a trip to Anlong Veng or Koh Ker try Hidden Cambodia Dirt Bike Tours.


Koh Ker

This is a huge temple complex in Preah Vihear province comprised of possibly hundreds of large and small monuments. Many are still deep in the jungle and/or surrounded by mines. There are so many ancient structures still inaccessible that people aren't yet entirely sure of all that is buried in the forest. For the time being, the pyramidal structure that is the centerpiece of this tenth century capital is the one significant monument accessible to visitors. I first visited Koh Ker in January 2003 and the story can be read here. Siyong is the nearest village and has several small and very local restaurants as well as one guesthouse.

A new road to Koh Ker from Beng Mealea was completed in 2004 making Koh Ker an easy day-trip from Siem Reap. There is a $10 per person admission fee to the temple complex as well as a $5 toll levied on all cars and trucks. Taxis want around $100 to go to Koh Ker, which is entirely too much, $60, maybe $80, toll included would be much more reasonable. Motos will do the trip for around $50-60.

Hidden Cambodia Dirt Bike Tours also offers motorbike and 4WD trips to Koh Ker.


Preah Khan

A.k.a. Bakan, and not to be confused with the Preah Khan located within the Angkor Archaeological Park and but a few kilometers north of Angkor Wat, this temple complex in Preah Vihear province is probably the largest complex built during the ancient Khmer empire and regrettably, now one of its most looted. The walls enclose an area of several square kilometers. Accessing this temple was once quite an ordeal put things have gotten easier of late. Hidden Cambodia Dirt Bike Tours offers motorbike and 4WD trips here.


Sambor Prei Kuk

This is a massive complex of over 100 ancient monuments dating to the 7th century located in Kompong Thom province. I have not yet visited this complex so I can't offer any special insight, but it's looking like this is going to become rightfully more and more of a popular attraction. Do try to make it here. The road is good and motos can be hired in Kompong Thom for the standard day rate (<$10).

For further information on Kompong Thom province as well as a recommend guide/motodriver to use while there, I recommend reading Andy Brouwer's website: http://www.andybrouwer.co.uk.


Banteay Chhmar

This is Banteay Meanchey province's one major tourist attraction and has recently become a lot easier to visit. Located about 60 kms north of Sisophon, which is 100 kms west of Siem Reap, it's a sprawling 12th century temple that has been badly looted. Additional smaller temples dot the region. I still have not made the trip up here so I can't offer any special insight into the place.

You can visit Banteay Chhmar as a long day-trip from Siem Reap by Camry taxi or by riding a 250cc motorbike. Hidden Cambodia Dirt Bike Tours can be helpful to this end. You can also spend the night in Sisophon, which if you're riding a motorbike, may be, depending on your level of endurance, a better option. If spending the night in Sisophon, you can also visit the temple by riding on the back of a moto and paying a day rate of about $10.


Anlong Veng

Folks come for the Khmer Rouge history and a number of sights to that end can be found here. In town is the Ta Mok villa and on the Dangrek Escarpment, about ten kilometers to the north is Pol Pot's final home, his cremation site, and a few other items of recent Khmer Rouge history. The government is doing what it can to turn this place into a tourist attraction. Given that after ancient temples, the most popular tourist sites in Cambodia are Khmer Rouge related (Tuol Sleng, killing fields, etc), it's not such a crazy idea.

It's been awhile since I've been to Anlong Veng and I'm told things have improved a bit but as of my last pass through town way back in January 2003 there were but a couple of basic guesthouses and restaurants in town. The most interesting eatery would have to be the Choum No Tror Cheak Restaurant which offers an extensive menu of jungle critters whose sole qualification for landing on the menu is that they either walk, crawl, slither, swim, or fly, which covers just about everything in the jungle and that's what they serve. Menu is in Khmer and Thai only. The restaurant is near Ta Mok's villa.

I have a large page on this website devoted to Anlong Veng and while a bit dated, I suggest reading it as it will cover all the area attractions in copious detail.

You can reach Anlong Veng by pickup truck, by motorbike, or by guided tour. The road is pretty trashed at the moment but you'll get there eventually. Many guesthouses and hotels can arrange a trip to Anlong Veng. For motorbiking and/or combining with a trip to Preah Vihear try Hidden Cambodia Dirt Bike Tours.


Other things to see and do


Land Mine museum

This is the well-known creation of Aki Ra located between town and Angkor Wat. He's had problems with the government over his displays, but has managed to remain open, though with a low profile. Most any motodriver will know about it. For more information, you can read this story I did based on an interview with Aki Ra in October 2000.


War museum

Opened in October 2001 by the Ministry of Defense and located near the airport. Laid out on some nicely landscaped grounds is a motley assortment of tanks, armored vehicles, anti-aircraft guns, and artillery cannons flanked by a few sheds housing an even more decrepit collection of automatic weapons, artillery shells, mines, grenades, grenade and rocket launchers, uniforms, Khmer Rouge flags, and basically any other military junk the generals had lying around. Other than labels identifying what the items are there is no attempt whatsoever to educate or place any of these items in any type of historical context. The admission fee is $3 which is entirely too much to walk around a rubbish yard.


Cambodian Cultural Village

Disneyland Khmer-style. Out near airport, the Cambodian Cultural Village offers a theme park approach to the culture of Cambodia, developed primarily for domestic consumption. There's a museum housing exhibits on wildlife, ancient jewelry and tools, and waxed figures from throughout Cambodia's history, including the controversial UNTAC figure seen left. Outside are reproductions of various Cambodia landmarks, i.e. Phnom Penh's Central Market, National Museum, Royal Palace, etc. and idealized miniature versions of a number of ethnic villages. Apparently the operators of this attraction would like to discourage foreigners from visiting as the foreigner price is $12 while Cambodian pay only a buck. Nice pricing scheme for a private commercial concern. For more information on this park and a few opinions on the UNTAC figure, see my December 2003 Cambodia Update.


Butterfly Garden

Pay a dollar and walk around a small, albeit lush garden and have dozens of butterflies swarm about your head. Fishpond, fruit trees, flowers and such. Not a bad way to relax for an hour. Food and drink available.


Crocodile Farm

Located south of town, pay $2 (was until recently only a buck) and walk around looking at smelly creatures that would think nothing of killing you in an instant.


Apsara Dancing

Hard to pin down just exactly who and when offers performances, but the following locations offer dancing on some kind of schedule: The Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Angkor Village (at the Apsara Theatre and open to anyone, not just guests of the resort), Chao Phraya Restaurant, Tonle Sap Restaurant, and Earthwalkers. Prices vary and usually include a meal. Most any moto or taxidriver can arrange this for you as the standard deal gives them a free meal for bringing you in.


Killing Fields Memorial

Almost every town in Cambodia has one, and in Siem Reap you can find a memorial stupa housing some skulls at Wat Thmei located between town and the Angkor Archaeological Park.


Balloon rides

A tethered balloon west of Angkor Wat takes you 200 meters up in the air for views of Angkor Wat and anything else you might want to look at. Foreigners are charged $12 and you're supposed to get ten minutes.


Golf

Sofitel manages the Phokeethra Country Club out past the airport. It ain't cheap.


Elephant Rides

In the morning around the South Gate of Angkor Thom and the Bayon and in the evenings up Phnom Bakheng. $10-15 for a ride. Don't bother shouting at the expat in charge of these elephants about abuse, cruelty, etc. He's heard it all already and will probably have you feeling far worse for having bothered him in the first place.


Motrocycle trips

Organized trips throughout northwest Cambodia can be arranged through Hidden Cambodia Dirt Bike Tours.


Bicycle trips

Biking Cambodia based in Siem Reap organizes nationwide bicycle tours.


Pools and fitness

Most of the better hotels have swimming pools and fitness centers open to the public for a fee.


Massage

Proper massage is available all over town. There are about half a dozen places near the Old Market that'll sort out tired bones and muscles at quite reasonable rates. A little more classy try either Frangipani or Body Tune